Origins & identity
The Santos is often called the first modern wristwatch, created by Louis Cartier for aviator Alberto Santos‑Dumont. It’s square with rounded corners and visible screws — practical, architectural, unmistakably sporty‑elegant. The Tank (1917) is Cartier’s purest rectangle, defined by straight brancards, a cabochon crown and calm dials. Both designs are over a century old, yet feel current because the proportions are timeless.
How they wear
- Santos — Slightly larger presence for the size, with integrated bracelet curve and those signature bezel screws. On bracelet, it reads sportier; on leather, smart‑casual.
• Tank — Dress‑leaning and slim; perfect under a cuff. In Tank Louis Cartier guise, it’s the distilled essence of the line.
Straps & bracelets: QuickSwitch & SmartLink
Modern Santos models feature QuickSwitch for strap changes and SmartLink for tool‑less bracelet sizing — ideal if you swap between leather and bracelet. Tank lines increasingly offer quick‑change straps as well, though the Santos system is the headline for sheer convenience.
Movements & options
Cartier offers quartz and mechanical options across both families, with sizes from mini through large. Santos adds skeletonised and dual‑time variants; Tank spans Louis Cartier, Must, Française, and Américaine. Pick movement by lifestyle: quartz for set‑and‑forget; mechanical if you enjoy the ritual.
Which to choose?
If you want a sporty square with everyday robustness and an easy swap to leather for evenings, choose Santos. If you want a clean, formal rectangle that whispers rather than shouts, choose Tank — especially Tank Louis Cartier. Size by wrist and sleeve: smaller looks fantastic when proportions are right.
At‑a‑glance
- Santos: square with screws; QuickSwitch & SmartLink; sporty‑elegant
• Tank: pure rectangle; iconic brancards; dress‑leaning
• Both: broad size range; quartz or mechanical; timeless design
Sources
Cartier — Santos collection & interchangeable bracelets: https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/collections/santos-de-cartier/ ; https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/choose-your-watch/by-bracelet-or-strap/interchangeable-bracelet-watches/
Cartier — Tank collection pages (Tank Louis Cartier and family): https://www.cartier.com/en-us/watches/collections/tank/
Background reading — Cartier overview: https://www.businessinsider.com/cartier-history-luxury-jewelry-watchmaker-worth
